Siphon brewers and filters

With the growing interest in non-espresso coffee, siphon brewers are making a come-back. But although far from mainstream, these coffee makers, sometimes called vacuum coffee makers, or vac pots for short, have had always had followers. I’m one of those followers myself, and have been using siphon brewers for over a decade now.

I often use my Kono and Hario brewers, which are just the right size and geometry for making great coffee. There is only one thing that not quite right about them: the filters. These popular Asian siphon brewers use cloth filters, and cloth filters are a real nuissance to clean. I do wonder, does anyone actually like these?

My point is, there are better alternatives. The best ones in my opinion are found in Cona coffee makers, which come with glass filters.
It may be difficult to understand how a glass contraption act as a coffee filter, but the history of siphon brewers has seen various types, and most work surprisingly well.

The picture above shows five different glass drainer style filters that are relatively easily available. The bulb in the middle has a rough surface that acts as a filter. From left to right, these are two Cona drainers (new and old), two Cory filter rods, and a Silex Lox-in.

The new model Cona drainer is still made to this day, and available from any Cona retailer. It works well in all siphon brewers, but its older brother (to the right of it) is my favourite. It’s larger and wider, and almost twice as heavy. Because of the low center of gravity, it sits very stable during brewing.
I don’t recommend the Silex Lox-in, but the Cory rods will work too, although these tend to wobble a bit. You can find these and the old Cona drainers on ebay.

Using a glass filter isn’t without some minor problems. For one thing, you need to be more careful when stirring the brew. Temporarily dislodging a glass filter can interrupt the brewing process. This can lead to more sediment in the cup, or, at worse, cause the coffee to be drawn down prematurely.

Still, glass filters are a great alternative for cloth filters. The amount of sediment in the cup is hardly more than you would get from a cloth or paper filter. Compared to cloth filters, these glass filters don’t affect the flavour of the coffee, and cleaning is a walk in the park.

So, why not simply use a glass filter in your Hario, Kono, or whatever other siphon coffee maker you normally use? I have tried this numerous times and found the Cona drainers to work well in the siphon brewers in my collection. Over the years I’ve come to think of these as more or less universal filters.
Which makes me wonder, does anyone else use a Cona drainer, or other glass filter?
Kono MM-2A with Cona filter

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Persepolis

This shop has in recent months become one of my faves. It hasn’t gotten a lot of attention yet, so here’s a plug for a shop that I really like. It’s called Persepolis, located at the Twijnstraat in Utrecht. Show map

Persepolis - shop front

Although there are a few Iranian specials on the shelves (dried omani limes, split dried broad beans), the shop has a wider assortment. One thing that I really like are the über-fresh veggies and fuit. I’ve already made the first jars of delicious jelly with quinces from this shop.

Obviously there is a good selection of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern products; yoghurt, cheeses, conditements, olives, herbs and spices, and pickles. I haven’t found the jars of pickled lemons yet, but I’m sure they’re there.
The shop also stocks a dozen types of couscous, rice, and pastas. Wish the owner would sell De Cecco instead of Barilla, but changing suppliers isn’t easy.

Here’s some good chow I made with ingredients from Persepolis.

Zucchini, pepper & halloumi salad

This is easy feasting. A warm salad of sautéed zucchini, red peppers, with roasted halloumi, garlic and sage. The red stuff is piri piri with olive oil and lemon juice. And obviously there’s fresh homemade bread, straight from the oven and still warm.

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Coffee beans: the good, the bad, and the ugly

Even if you don’t roast coffee professionally, you may know what green, unroasted coffee beans look like. Colour, size, and appearance will vary, depending on the origin, the grade, and the way the beans were processed.
Just by looking at the coffee, you can’t tell how the coffee will taste, or if it will be any good. You can however tell something. Here is a shot of what coffee roasters like to see.

Nicaraguan green coffee

These are nice looking green coffee beans. They’re from a Nicaraguan coffee, in fact from a Cup of Excellence winner. It’s a pulped natural and as you can see there the beans still have some of the silverskin (“chaff”) on the beans. This may or may not be your favourite cup, but it is at least a coffee of a quality that will fetch a good price on the market.
Of course, not all of the beans in a bag will look like this. Some will invariably look like the ones in the next picture.

Ugly beans - defects

These ugly beans are what is known in the coffee trade as defects. Not every ugly bean counts as a full defect. For instance, three of the partially black beans in the picture above count as only one full defect.
The damage that make coffee beans defects can occur anywhere in the production chain. Some happen while the coffee berry ripens on the tree, some during harvesting, processing, storage, or shipping. The causes are multiple; insects, fermentation, moulds, poor handling, etc.
Defects don’t necessarily impart a bad flavour, but they can, and some can ruin a cup of coffee. If you like a good coffee, you’d rather not find one of these in it, or at least as few as possible.

It is common practice in the trade to take samples, and pick out the defects. The number of defects per 300g sample defines the grade. The lower the number, the higher the grade of the coffee, and the more expensive the coffee is.
Conversely, lower grade coffee contains more defects, and is considerably less expensive. Because coffee isn’t always sorted at the roasting plant, those defects will eventually end up in the package of roasted coffee.

Cheap beans are cheap for a reason, and that reason is partly because of the ugly stuff in the picture above. The question is, would you like to drink the coffee brewed from this?

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Limini Coffee’s Rwanda

We never made it a secret we are partial to African coffees, and we certainly loved this Rwanda that Limini Coffee sent us. Limini had used this coffee in a blend at the UKBC.
Rwandese coffee is relatively new on the specialty coffee market. Much of the current stock was planted as UN economic aid after the bloody civil wars of the 1990s. Its success is a combination of fertile soil, altitude, an excellent choice of cultivar, and careful processing.
All that shows in this coffee. The flavours of this Rwandese Bourbon are beautifully layered. There is a ground level of what can be described as bakers chocolate (single origin criollo), or perhaps just “typically coffee”. Stacked upon that are toasty notes, and a berry-like (redcurrant?) fruity note. Hiding in the background is a subtle vanilla.

Brewed as espresso, the cup has a honey/syrupy quality that lasts a long time. Although there is some wine-like acidity, it adds to the cup. We very much appreciate the combination, and dynamics of flavours. The berry going citrusy as the cup cools, with the initially subdued vanilla note getting stronger.

Rwandese bourbon coffee from Limini (UK)

This is a coffee that does well as drip coffee, and at a pinch in a vacuum brewer, but the muddy brew of a cafetiere doesn’t become this exceptional coffee.
For espresso, we prefer the Rwanda brewed at a slightly higher temperature, ca. 93-94°C. For a better appreciation of the complex flavours, we recommend dilluting the shot with few drops of hot water.

Aroma: berry, chocolate, “coffee”, vanilla
Flavour: berry/redcurrant, criollo chocolate, “coffee”, vanilla
Body: syrupy mouthfeel
Acidity: medium high, enjoyable red wine tannins
Aftertaste: fairly long, with recurring redcurrant and chocolate

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